Milan Ends, Paris Commences
As Milan Fashion Week concludes for another Ready to Wear season, we look to some of the key collections from the final days.
Philipp Plein
Known for pushing the boundaries of the standard runway format, Philipp Plein did not disappoint for the presentation of his SS15 collection at Milan Fashion Week. A 40-piece orchestra provided the soundtrack for the show, while moody projections of the aquatic world the backdrop. The garments themselves evoked a 1950s silhouette, with skirts cinched at the waistline and paired with cropped vests. A series of sequinned garments dazzled and were complimented with embellishment heavy shoes and accessories. The show concluded in darkness with projections directed onto a series of white dresses.
Genny
A sense of luxe was instilled throughout the Genny SS15 collection. Gold was used in abundance, with garments either being constructed completely in the colour, or with notes of gold used to create shine. One notable look was an alluring jacket worn long over a white one-piece swimsuit with gold sandals. As has been evident throughout the season, a focus on the female waistline celebrated the silhouette, with a number of the Genny garments featuring a subtle cut-out in this area. The details of the Palazzo Clerici made it a fitting location for the presentation of the Ready to Wear collection.
Antonio Marras
Notes of oriental inspiration defined the SS15 Ready to Wear collection from Antonio Marras. The cuts of dresses were reminiscent of kimonos, while sandals held elements of traditional Japanese Geta. A series of light dresses flowed with intricate combinations of pleated layering, while longer dresses hung loose and were printed with large ink swirls. The setting of the show itself was equally as intricate, with models walking under a Ferris wheel constructed with bike wheels and suitcases.
Jil Sander
Rodolfo Paglialunga’s debut collection for Jil Sander was underpinned by a desire to create garments that are wearable. Keen to shed the Sander reputation as a brand that is viewed as ‘minimal’, Paglialunga’s focus was on bringing the brand into the present. The collection evoked the concept of a uniform, with shirts worn layered under light knits, in a colour palette of shades of blue and burgundy. This idea was reiterated in one look involving a pinafore worn with knee high socks and black ankle shoes. The result was a collection that was structured, yet at the same time allowed the wearer to play.
Salvatore Ferragamo
Lightness and a seasonal luxury was the feeling created by the Salvatore Ferragamo SS15 collection. Comprised primarily of dresses, necklines were high and the garments were long – floating over the female body. The colour palette ranged from beige into more vibrant shades of orange, with notes of sand, gold and snakeskin seen throughout. Accessories did not overpower the garments as dresses were paired with a simple clutch.
The SS15 Ready to Wear season will continue in Paris commencing on Tuesday 23 September 2014. Click here to view our picks for the week and stay tuned to our Facebook, Instagram and Twitter for further coverage.
—
