Haute Couture AW15/16: Nostalgia
Another Haute Couture season is upon us. As we wait in anticipation for the first AW15/16 presentation in Paris we reflect on the presentations of the recent past.
The journey of couture has recently taken us from renovation and continuity in the AW12/13 season to the dreamy inspirations of a number of presentations in the SS14 season to the most recent SS15 set of presentations, which focused on drama, three-dimensional accessories and the expression of differences and opposites.
“Renovation, evocation, continuity and the opposite of all that: I took the spirit and attitude of Mademoiselle Chanel to create something contemporary,” explained Karl Lagerfeld on Chanel’s AW12/13 presentation which stood out with a renewal of vintage fashion style inspired by 50s tweed. The collection conveyed elegant confidence and class.
We experienced a season with dreamy couture crafted by three prominent couture houses in January of 2014. Pappillons de Paris (Butterflies of Paris), was the major theme seen from Jean Paul Gaultier, while a symphony of colour, delicate lace and floral motifs inspired the collection of Elie Saab. The profound influence of Tunisian-Parisian designer Azzedine Alaïa was slowly revealed in Donatella’s collection for Atelier Versace.
The AW14/15 season brought collections marked by substance, structure and original garment creations. A focus on corset and feathers seen in Serkan Cura’s pieces, while volume, perspective and detail, marked the vision of Ralph & Russo.
A dramatic touch and a focus on diversity and experimentation was the focus of the SS15 season. Jean Paul Gaultier played with contrasting opposites and differences in styles, while Viktor & Rolf presented a collection that turned Van Gogh’s impressionist art into 3D haute couture pieces. Elie Saab brought back the Lebanese capital, Beirut’s golden age in the 60s.
We now wonder what to expect from the design greats who have helped shape the world of fashion, some for over a century as we look forward to the AW15/16 season of Haute Couture in Paris, which commences on Sunday 5 July and concludes Thursday 9 July 2015.
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