Haute Couture AW14/15: Day 3 and 4
From the garments to those who wore them, days three and four of Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture AW14/15 was instilled with powerful statements.
Chanel
Karl Lagerfeld welcomed his guests to the Grand Palais in a décor evoking a 20th century Parisian apartment. From laminated lace to neoprene and concrete, the AW14/15 collection invited new and unexpected materials to the Haute Couture genre, combining them with chiffon, tulle, tweed and organza to create a modern silhouette. Conventions were further challenged with ‘seamless Haute Couture’, where the jackets and coats were made from a single piece, cut on the bias. Lagerfeld’s final statement was a visibly pregnant bride in a white neoprene empire gown.
Maison Martin Margiela
Giving found objects a new lease on life, the AW14/15 Haute Couture collection from Maison Martin Margiela, merged the old and new. The style of the collection – utilising patchwork techniques and layering – ensured the found was distinct from the new. Continuing the style seen in their SS14 show, Maison Martin Margiela again placed particular emphasis on face covering headwear. The embellishments continued across onto a selection of gowns, brought together with patchwork panels. Bomber jackets embellished with oriental patterns were worn tied over floor length gowns, while an embellished bandeau was shaped in a heart with the text ‘I love you’.
Elie Saab
Lebanese designer Elie Saab evoked another world instilled with glamour for his AW14/15 Haute Couture collection. Gowns were the sole focus of the collection and each was intricately beaded and constructed. Traditional items of eveningwear were given a contemporary touch, as seen in soft feathery cowls died pink. The Pavillon Cambon Capucines was the perfect location for the presentation, with a runway of low hanging chandeliers, glowing softly with purple light, truly evoking a site for glamour.
Viktor & Rolf
Red. Limiting their AW14/15 collection to only one colour Viktor & Rolf presented an intense and conceptual collection. The garments explored the diversity of the ‘knot’ with garments tied at shoulders, bust and waistline. The restricted colour palette allowed the textures of the fabrics and the silhouette of the garments to be brought to attention. Footwear was a casual take on the Haute Couture genre, with models each wearing a red pair of lace up brogues.
Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture AW 14/15 continues until Friday 11 July 2014. fluoro will be providing coverage throughout the week.
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