London SS16 Womenswear: Future of the Past
The Ready to Wear SS16 Womenswear season at London Fashion Week demonstrated the ingenuity of a number of designers and the spirit of innovation in British design.
The aesthetics were bold, transgressed and incorporated the past, while simultaneously looking to the future of fashion design. We highlight the brands that embodied the essence of the London SS16 Ready to Wear Womenswear season.
J.W.Anderson
The work of the forward-thinking designer continued across the season. Described by Anderson as an “odyssey oscillating between intergalactic Olympics and empowered femininity,” his collection stunned with its boldness and strong focus on volume. His collection included intergalactic tracksuits, emphatic Renaissance shoulders, leather pantaloon trousers, an innovative combination of textures, and a unique focus on details. A display of exaggerated tuxedos, lingerie lace cycling shorts and Keith Haring-esque shapes, Anderson has sought to redefine eclectic through his juxtaposition of times, shape, style and form.
Gareth Pugh
The spirit of London’s Soho was a strong influence for Pugh, and it was in full effect at this year’s presentation. Held at a car park in Soho to best convey the feelings incited by the iconic area such as danger, euphoria and possibility. Such sentiments were evident in his collection, as the runway showed classic styles redefined with bold prints, an abundance of leather, sequins and fur. Pugh’s collection was a nod to spirit of innovation, a reminder that while the past influences his designs, he’s not shying away from the future. Pugh’s appearance at this year’s London Fashion week also sees his return to London, after five years in Paris.
Paul Smith
Iconic British designer Paul Smith, known for his clean design, saw this year’s collection steer toward the independent female of today. His daywear was a display of personality, with a strong focus on vibrant colours, graphic prints and languid shapes. His fine art of classic minimalism was not absent, Smith’s collection being an explosion of roomy silk pieces, boxy shapes, structured suits, belted tailored trousers and trench coats. The presentation, true to Smith, featured a heavy focus on music, sounds provided by The Slits, Georgia and Peaches.
Burberry
Burberry, known for a heritage of innovation, craftsmanship and design, presented their show at the custom-built venue in London’s Kensington’s Gardens. The collection revealed was entitled Funtionregalia, displaying a combination of functional pieces mixed with traditional regalia. From crested buttons to hand embroidered military motifs, Burberry displayed a juxtaposition of elegant British lace, and daring leather biker jackets. The Burberry presentation, and a world first, was also streamed through Snapchat, engaging with a younger and technology savvy audience, ensuring their legacy continues its global reach.
Marta Jakubowski
A graduate of the Royal College of Arts, Polish born, German raised designer Marta Jakubowski, has gained experience with iconic designers such as Alexander Wang and Jonathan Saunders. Jakubowski operates her own label, and after receiving a NEWGEN sponsorship, she stunned crowds at the NEWGEN Pop-Up Showroom for emerging designers. Her collection consisted of streamlined, long silhouettes, and classic colours with unexpected, subtle cut-outs, evoking the style of Arte Povera, combining minimalism and drama. Jakubowski’s pieces are elegant, sleek, inspired and forward-looking.
Marques Almeida
Designer Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida are renowned for their avant-garde, grungy aesthetic, and fervent experimentation. Their collection was raw, rugged and transgressed the boundaries of typicality into fearlessly innovative. Restructured denim pieces, a mix of tulle, jute and gauzy cotton, their pieces were asymmetric, layered and angular, eschewing our understanding of shape and function. Another powerful mix of styles, clashing the classic with contemporary.
The pieces presented at London Fashion Week demonstrated the allure of simplicity, and the innovative aesthetic that can be created when blending legacy and the contemporary.
As the Ready to Wear SS16 Womenswear season in London has come to a close, we turn our focus to the start of Milan Fashion Week. Stay tuned to fluoro for coverage.
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